Goodbye Chemtrails, Hello Blue Skies!
The Do-It-Yourself Kit for Sky Repair
By Ken Adachi <Editor@educate-yourself.org>
Jan. 10. 2002
A couple of years ago, I was standing outside a restaurant on a sunny day in southern California showing Joanna Beck, wife of Dr. Bob Beck, just how simple it was to disperse clouds using The Visual Ray (http://educate-yourself.org/tjc/visualray21may0.shtml), a technique I learned from reading Trevor James Constable‘s book, The Cosmic Pulse of Life. After demonstrating the technique to her on a couple of smaller clouds, we worked together on evaporating a particular large cumulus cloud and noticed how the blueness of the sky was slightly darker where the large cloud had existed only a few minutes earlier, a result of intensified orgone energy ( http://educate-yourself.org/dc/dcwhatisorgone.shtml ) accumulating in that area.
Almost simultaneously, we wondered aloud whether a group of people could use this technique to break up chemtrails! I tried it a number of times on my own, but I couldn’t get chemtrail ‘clouds’ to break up and disperse the same way normal clouds would and I wondered silently whether a Cloudbuster, a simple invention of Wilhelm Reich.to direct orgone energy in the atmosphere, could tackle the job.
Over the course of 35 years, Trevor Constable had modified Reich’s original long pipe arrayed Cloudbuster down to a much smaller, compact, and simpler design that could ‘make’ or ‘break’ weather in any direction he chose: He could make rain or stop it; he could relieve drought and break up smog or create a dry spell and intensify smog conditions. The manner in which you manipulate the atmospheric ether in a given area is the key.
Trevor discovered that success depends on how you apply his Cloudbuster design to direct the flow of etheric energy. Its normal movement is from west to east in northern latitudes. If you reverse its flow and build up clouds, you’ll get rain. If the flow of orgone is stagnated and bottled up, you’ll get drought or smog. If you release the etheric flow after being ‘bottled up’ or stuck during a dry spell, you will get torrential rains. There is likely no civilian on the face of this earth who has accumulated more expertise about weather engineering than Trevor James Constable
However, the hero of this article is Don Croft, a man who was already familiar with Reich’s observations of orgone energy and his invention of the Cloudbuster. Don was talking one day with a man who told him about a radionics type device that he obtained over the internet. He said that paid over $500 for a plastic box which contained some dials and mostly metal shavings and epoxy resin.
Don was intrigued and read more information about the device. The maker of the device had capitilized on an observation that Wilhelm Reich had written about in one of his books on orgone energy, The Cancer Biopathy. Reich found that any organic material, when juxtapositioned with metal, will act as an absorber of orgone energy which is first attracted to and then reflected away by the metal. The device maker was calling his device an orgone generator (abbreviated “orgen” here). Apparently, an orgen can generate the positive form of orgone (“OR”) energy by transmuting or neutralizing the deadly or negative form of orgone energy dubbed “DOR” . Orgone accumulators , on the other hand, can accumulate (and intensify) both the positive and deadly polarities of orgone energy. Orgone accumulators have traditionally been abbreviated “oracs” and Don sometimes uses that term himself, but Don’s modified version of a Cloudbuster employs the mixture of metal shavings and plastic resin of the orgone generator and is not the same thing as a traditional Reichean orogne accumulator or Reichean Cloudbuster. The marrying of metal shavings and plastic resin of the orgone generator with Reich’s Cloudbuster pipes has resulted in a different atmospheric instrument, with new and inique attributes from the traditional Reich Cloudbuster.
It’s probably more appropo to call it a “Chembuster” to distinguish it from Reich’s Cloudbuster and avoid misunderstandings among Reich aficionados and pedagogues. The orgone generator portion of Don’s hybrid devices consists of metal shavings, magnets, crystals, and sometimes a Mobius coil or spiral coils that are rigidly held in place by epoxy or polyester resin. With psychic inisights gained form his wife Carol, and a little help from dowsing, Don had also put together a much smaller, cone shaped orgone generator using the above mentioned materials and called it a Holy Handgrenade (HHg) which you can make yourself
(http://educate-yourself.org/dc/HHGconstruction10jan02.shtml) or obtain one ready made ( http://educate-yourself.org/dc/orgonegenindex.shtml )
A number of people have reported unusual and positive emotional/physical effects produced by a HHg, even from a considerable distance. Don also incorporated the orgone generator into his Terminator, his latest hybrid modification of a low frequency bioelectric ‘zapper’ that has also generatred some “unusual” reports of its own ( http://educate-yourself.org/dc/dcdonszapperandterminator24mar02.shtml ).
Holy Handgrenades” Batman!
Orgone generators have the ability to focus life-positive orgone energy and break up areas of noxious, life-draining energies of DOR, a word coined by Wilhelm Reich for Deadly ORgone. Don found that his orgone generator could neutralize DOR and seemed to only generate positive, life-enhancing energies. Don and his wife began planting these HHg’s at outdoor locations near nuclear power plants and other areas of noxious, life depleting energies (secret underground and underwater bases, etc.) and started to have a definite effect on improving the energy fields radiating from these zones.
Since he already was thinking about using the Reich Cloudbuster to try and break up chemtrails, Don took it a step further and combined a large version of his HHg with the rigid copper pipes of a Cloudbuster and a 2 gallon plastic bucket to hold the whole enchilada together. This modification of Reich’s Cloudbuster into a Chembuster is a unique and original prototype by Don & Carol Croft and produces some rather ‘unique’ effects.
Don originally had set up his Chembuster outside on a chemtrail-overcast day with the pipes pointing straight up and sure enough, after a while, the chemtrails started to break up revealing blue sky above. The longer he left the Chembuster in place, the clearer the sky got, eventually covering an area out to 90 miles. He later improved the Chembuster design and got the coverage to extend out to 120 miles. A man named Rick from the Los Angeles area timed how long it took his Chembuster to disperse overhead Chemtrails and posted his photos to the Don’s original Cloudbuster chat forum (now defunct). Amazingly, the area immediately above Rick’s Chembuster transformed from Chemtrail laden overcast to CLEAR blue sky in less than 10 minutes. You can see the photo sequence here: ( http://educate-yourself.org/dc/dcricks10minctclearingjob.shtml ).
Don had contacted me by E mail last year and was sending me reports of his success with the Chembuster both in this country and abroad. He had sent the instructions to an African man named Gert Botha living in Namibia who built a modified version of the device using locally scavenged materials (read Africa’s First Cloudsbuster ( http://educate-yourself.org/ct/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.shtml )
Initially, Gert found that his Chembuster was having an effect on the incessant sand storms, causing them to constantly change direction, but eventually he found that aiming the Chembuster south at an angle of 30 degrees to the horizon forced the sandstorms to stop. After being parked in this position for two months, his Chembuster brought on torrential rains for the first time in many dry months to one of the driest regions of Africa.
Your Weekend Project
Complete instructions to make your own Chembuster are included in this article. It will cost you about $150 US dollars if you buy all of the materials new, but if you’re a scrounger, you can probably do it for the cost of the plastic resin. The instructions were written by Don Croft, but the original aritlce has assembled, edited and organized by a wonderful person by the name of Stephanie Relfe ( firstname.lastname@example.org ) who has a couple of great web sites that everyone should take a look at: www.metatech.org and www.relfe.com .
Anyone with modest do-it-yourself skills can build these devices, but be aware that a Reichean style Cloudbuster is not a toy. It directs orgone energy, both the good type and the harmful DOR type. Don’s modification of the traditional CB has removed most of the concern and potential dangers of DOR, since the orgen neutralizes the DOR, but one individual reported getting a headache after touching the pipes of a Chembuster and NOT touching the base to ground himself out. Always touch the base after handling the pipes of an active Chembuster.
A traditional Cloudbuster patterened after Reich’s design has the potential to be harmful if you don’t know what you are doing. Trevor Constable told me first hand a story about the late Robert McCullough, Reich’s friend and assistant in the Arizona desert in the 1950’s. Dr Reich and Bob were running pioneering experiments with Reich’s Cloudbuster in the desert when Bob had allowed a big (functioning) Cloudbuster to accidentally touch the side of his bare leg-which instantly paralyzed his leg and caused him excruciating pain. It took weeks to recover. Bob walked with a limp and had to use a cane for the rest of his life. The desert environment contains the highest ratio of atmospheric DOR energy than any other place on Earth, so it was the worst possible location to have such an accident. You don’t have that sort of concern with Don’s Chembuster, but touch the base (just to be sure) after handling the pipes to avoid the potential of getting a headache. In general, avoid touching the pipes of a Chembuster after it has been set up and running for a few days. If you need to touch the pipes of an active Chembuster, it’s a good idea to take a heavy copper conductor wire, like an battery jumper cable, and touch the jumper cable to each pipe in turn while holding the opposite end of the cable against the earth (or at least against the resin/metal matrix of the base if you can’t get at the soil).
Below, you’ll find the edited reprint of Don’s paper on Chemtrail Busting and complete instructions for making your own Chembuster or “CB”.
While written some time ago, Don’s Introductory Notes offer important insights into the Croft world view and their mission. I believe you will find it highly informative and in sync with the emerging paradigm of the new millennium.
CB Parts, Kits, & Networking
Don explains in the paper where to locate most supplies for the CB such as Home Depot. You can obtain crystals for the CB or HHg from Gladys Bridges (email@example.com) and neodymium magnets from http://www.wondermagnet.com . You could also do a search for neodymium magnets at http://www.google.com
If you wish to obtain a ready made Chembuster, HHg, or other orgone generators, visit this link, http://educate-yourself.org/dc/orgonegenindex.shtml
How to Build A Chembuster to Disperse Chemtrails
and Improve the Weather
Written by Don Croft <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Edited, assembled, and originally posted by Stephanie Relfe at http//www.metatech.org
Definition of a contrail: A contrail occurs when a plane travels at a high altitude (about 30,000 ft. or more) and compresses the air into a water vapor or ice crystals through jet engines or the wing tips pushing through the air. This trail disappears after anywhere from a few seconds to 15 minutes, as the water vapor evaporates.
Definition of a chemtrail: The term “chemtrail” is a relatively new word, which appeared in the last few years along with the appearance of chemtrails. A chemtrail is very different from a contrail. At first a chemtrail might look a bit like a contrail. However, instead of disappearing like a contrail does, a chemtrail just keeps spreading out and forming a hazy cloud bankout and forming a hazy cloud bank These trails traverse the whole sky and stay for up to around five or even eight hours. . .
They have been known to turn what was originally a clear blue sky into a grey haze. (Note: As of Nov 2001 there are already several dozen Chembusters in seven countries, so if you see chemtrails that don’t last anywhere near this long, there may already be a Chembuster in the area). It is believed chemtrails are composed at least in part by an oil based substance of unknown content that is actually being sprayed from jets on populated areas. It has also been found that some chemtrails contain red blood cells, aluminum, mycoplasma, viruses and other unknown biological components. There are many reports of increased diseases, especially respiratory ailments, in areas where there are chemtrails.
Chemtrails are often seen to be sprayed by white planes with no markings. Sometimes you will see these planes give off no contrail at all, and immediately after the same kind of plane in the same area will start to leave a thick chemtrail. At other times, distinct short gaps in chemtrails have been photographed, as though the plane ran out of chemicals and then had to start spraying with a new supply.
For information on Chemtrails see the sites listed at http://www.carnicom.com/contrails.htm
History of the Cloudbuster
The Wilhelm Reich Cloudbuster was well known for its ability to create rain. But a problem existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the operator if it was not correctly “drained off”. This “draining off” of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by 1. Connecting the Cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2. Connecting the Cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the orgone accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone energy which in turn caused more problems for the operator. So the Cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented
By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy-to-build device that consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The “Chembuster” is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the operator. You can build one for about $150.
Join The Battle – Now!
It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one person cannot change the things that are happening to our country. You now have no excuse for inaction. For a few dollars and a few hours of your time YOU can make a difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile diameter) from the unit. If used with Slim Spurling’s environmental tools, and a few extra crystals, the diameter can be increased to about 120 miles in all directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT DOWN the multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The Chembuster cannot do any damage. It can only help and heal. It’s up to you to join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details
Set pipes in bottom spacer
Middle Plywood Spacer
BUCKET: Base: 9″ in dia., 9″ deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished Chembuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1″ copper pipes, 6′ long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz crystal, about 2″ long, into a .75” section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use ‘Goop’ glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. (Note) Another option is to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this smoothes the CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However, citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at eliminating chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a ½” screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!
PLYWOOD: Template 1 – 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap.
Template 2 – Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 – I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid.
Not to scale Widest circle is 9 1/8”
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats), but epoxy also works, as does Envirotech resin from http://www.eti-usa.com (this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). If you are going to construct many of these units, try to purchase your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. Home Depot gets $24 per gallon for resin.
On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and flat. CAUTION: Resin fumes are flammable; use in a warm, but well ventilated area.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal particles (equal volume of resin to metal particles). Put the base Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just touches the surface and doesn’t sink in much. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio as before. Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the bucket with the resin squishing over the top.
Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used during construction, as I mentioned.
You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished (wait until it hardens before you move it. You will actually use about one gallon of metal shavings and 1 ½ gal. of resin.
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12″ long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the base. Buy six coupler joints which allow a pipe to come into them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10′ long, cut in half. The finished product leaves you with only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12″ pipes for pouring the second layer of mix, temporarily tape the top ends of the 12″ pipes so no metal particles are dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket.
Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5′ pipes onto the 12″ base pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the 5’ copper pipes.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously, though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn’t harden before you’re done.
We experimented with 5′ extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base by leaving the extended Chembuster pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week.
We found that we don’t need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it’s left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the Chembuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog, which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
Chembusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for your Chembuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the Chembuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes.
Dr. Reich’s Cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one spot. It’s similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field. When cloud cover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or too much rain) the Chembuster busts it up.
It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the weather, I think it sort of mediates between the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia, Africa finally brought heavy rain to the desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the Chembuster and reported the occurrence ( http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html ), told me that this had simply never happened in the Namib desert before to the best of anyone’s knowledge. It’s arguably the driest region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently.
Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than the last word.
SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of the material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily. In freezing climates, cover the top of the six pipes with mini umbrellas so water can’t freeze and shatter the crystals. The CB appears to effect chemtrails equally well whether it’s placed indoors or out. Up to seven crystals can be placed in each pipe to improve performance.
CB plowing through chemtrails in the midwest